A big wet sponge or wallpaper steamer will speed up this process. To strip wallpaper, you can remove the layers by wetting them and leaving the water to soak into the paper. Wallpaper stripping You might choose to remove wallpaper yourself, or this can be included as part of the package when you hire PBF from Auckland. One way to fix damaged or rough walls is through a process called wall skimming, most commonly needed because wallpaper has been stripped or because the original GIB® stopping wasn’t of acceptable quality. My Brother and I use to use all Durabond 20 in the brown bags as our base coat put about a 1/8" thick then shave down the high spots, then we would hand sand to a smooth finish, as time went by we moved to 90 that way we could mix a whole bag of 90 in a 5, we would mix so it's like soft serve ice cream, then we would use a textured roller skin since it holds the mud better, then I would use a 14" knife and smooth it out, we would let it dry up then shave it down, then we take topping compound roll it on then I would use a 14" trowel and smooth this out then let it sit over night and then the next day we would come in set up our dust collector and set up ladders and planks around the room to do the ceiling and then sand everything using Dewalt palm sanders with 80 grit sandpaper, I have all kinds of pictures of this on my site, I can even do Crown mouldings with this stuff.A smooth surface is essential for a high-quality finish. I have done skim coating of ceilings and walls for 25 years now, I have done hundreds of houses this way, A guy I use to work for calls me the Durabond King. I hope this helps and it adds some value or ease to your jobs Works much better than the metal knockdown blades. ONE more thing, when doing brocade or knockdown, Ames tools sells a plexiglass knockdown blade, and it works great! when I was in Texas, I did a bunch of knockdown, and a guy told me about them. I never had much luck with a squeege, and I usually am working by myself on that type of job so maybe it is better with two, (the same with rolling it on with a roller first) because if you don't lay it off fast enough it will dry on you. Each job is different, but I like doing it. Then you take a high wattage lightbulb and go over every inch. On that, if it really must be SMOOTH, I take a sanding sponge, (fine) and very, very lightly, use a circular motion and sand. staple the mesh on and it can take 3 coats to really make it "sweet". I don't sand much! The wide fiberglass mesh is good when going over plaster walls. I like skimming walls! I usually put the mud on with a 10" knife, and "lay it off" with a 14" trowel, then I skim that with a 12' knife. Hi, I read the post, and I thought I would add my "2 cents". I still chuckle when our tapers (newly-hired guys) try to slip something (crappy work) by me on a project at the drywall stage, because they think I "need them" in order to get the work done. I am still glad that it is the first skill I learned in the trades, as I consider it the most difficult, patience-racking, and advantageous skill for the line of work I am in. It is not something that you will pick-up" from doing "alot" of "drywall". The thing that you (bujaly) need to realize, is that this is something that was learned from about 5+ years of doing taping/coating/drywall fulltime (when I started off in the business). However, give me a "new" knife, that isn't shaped that way, and, there are going to be lines and edges. I can do very smooth and even, compound skim-coating with this knife, and leave virtually no ridges. That made me realize that I am half-decent at it. (Filing, if knicks developed).įWIW: I didn't think much of my taping skills/coating skills, till about 8 years ago, when a very old timer (retired) paid me a compliment, while we were both on a volunteer project. The one I still use, when I have to, is slightly curved or leveled on the edges. I don't do much coating and taping now-a-days.
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